How do you feel about UV protection when it comes to your skin? Is it only relevant for you on vacation? Or has it already become part of your everyday life?
The fact is that UV rays can damage the skin. That's why it's so important that we deal with the topic. Especially given that the number of hospital treatments for skin cancer has been increasing for years. For example, the Federal Statistical Office in Wiesbaden, Germany announced in its press release on May 23, 2023, that the number of hospital treatments for skin cancer throughout Germany has increased by almost 75 percent within twenty years. Climate change and the associated excessive UV radiation and sunburns are cited as possible reasons.
So, what is UV radiation?
Our sunlight is electromagnetic radiation consisting of different wavelengths. These include X-rays, visible light, infrared light, and ultraviolet radiation. Only ultraviolet radiation, i.e., UV radiation, is relevant to skin physiology. And here, to be precise, it is the UVA and UVB rays.
UVA rays tan the skin, cause premature aging and hyperpigmentation, and damage collagen fibers. Our body needs UVB rays to produce vitamin D. At the same time, UVB rays are also responsible for skin redness and sunburn. Both UVA and UVB rays can trigger the development of skin cancer.
UV filters in sunscreens and care products
Thanks to my grandfather, Dr. Richard Adam Eckstein, we are among the pioneers in using UV filters in sun creams. That was in the 1970s. Since the current state of research at the time was mainly about protecting the skin from sunburn, these filters only offered protection against UVB radiation, but not against UVA radiation. That is why the indication of the sun protection factor currently only refers to protection against UVB radiation. Did you know that? But no worry. A few years later, UVA filters were added.
Just ensure that your sun protection includes adequate UVA protection and an adequate sun protection factor. If you want to be on the safe side, choose products that are marked with a UVA in a circle symbol. The symbol was introduced on the recommendation of the EU Commission. It states that the UVA protection is at least 1/3 of the sun protection factor and indicates to the consumer that the product, therefore, has sufficient broad-spectrum protection.
Mineral physical filters vs. organic chemical filters
Different filters can be used in creams to protect against UV rays.
On the one hand, there are mineral physical filters such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide. They reflect and scatter light. Such filters can leave white streaks on the skin and give the products a thick consistency that is often perceived as unpleasant. This is also why many people who use such a product do not apply enough, and the proven protective function is not achieved. As a guideline, adults should use at least three tablespoons of sunscreen to apply to the face and body.
On the other hand, most organic chemical UV filters absorb UV rays and convert them into heat energy.
Research has shown concerns about various organic chemical filters ranging from environmental to health issues. These filters include, for example, oxybenzone, octinoxate, avobenzone, benzophenone, octocrylene and homosalate. But mineral UV filters such as zinc oxide can also be considered unsafe, depending on their formulation.
However, there are now filters of a new generation that are effective and more environmentally friendly. These include the organic chemical filters bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyl-triazine (BEMT), ethylhexyl-triazone (EHT), and methylene-bis-benzotriazolyl-tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT). These are used, for example, in our
Daily Defense day care.
Which sun protection do I need?
According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, regular use of sunscreen and daycare products with at least SPF 15 can reduce the risk of developing skin cancer by about 40% and the risk of melanoma by 50%.
It's absolutely true that a higher SPF, such as SPF 50, provides a lot of UVB protection because it blocks 98% of UVB rays. But SPF 15 also blocks the majority of UVB rays at 93%. The following graphic shows the comparison of different sun protection factors.
Graphic: How much UVB radiation is blocked by each sun protection factor?
Your individual sun protection needs depend on various circumstances. This includes your skin type, the current UV index of your region, and how long you plan to stay outdoors. However, it is important to remember that SPF filters in sun protection and care products are only part of a holistic approach to maintaining skin health. You can find a lot of helpful information about this and how you can determine your individual sun protection needs in my blog post
Let the Sun Be Your Friend.
But I would like to give you a personal example: Whenever I spend several hours in an area with a very high UV index (UVI 8+), for example, on longer hikes, I reach for our
Sun Shield SPF 50. However, for daily use, with shorter stays outdoors (less than 4 hours) and a medium UV index, I use our
Daily Defense day care, where I can choose between sun protection factors 15 and 25.
Incidentally, voices from research and practice are becoming increasingly louder, classifying already tanned skin as damaged. With this information in mind, you may also want to reconsider your approach to the sun.
More is not always better
Studies have shown that people who use a higher SPF often overestimate the protection they are getting, causing more damage to their skin. Therefore, a conscious and enlightened approach to this topic is essential. As a skin care expert, I firmly believe that we should know precisely what protection we need and not use more than necessary. There is also another reason for this—namely that of sustainability. The life cycle of sunscreen ingredients includes their production and degradation. The fewer filters used in the product, the less of that ingredient has to be produced, and the more resources are saved, including energy and raw materials. And at the end of the life cycle, fewer particles have to be broken down. That's why, for sustainability, it's best to use as little sunscreen as necessary to protect your skin properly. And it leads me to another point.
UV filters and the sea
From the start, I want to be honest: There is no perfect UV filter. Every single filter on the market has advantages and disadvantages, and none of them is 100% sustainable and marine biocompatible. I researched this topic extensively, especially as part of our product development. The only consensus I have found across many publications is that more research is needed on UV filters and the environment to understand better the damage they cause when they enter our waterways and oceans. Scientific studies also show how complex the topic is. The toxicity, for example, for marine life such as corals and fish, depends, among other things, on the type of filter, the combination of filters, and their composition. It also depends on the wastewater treatment and which particles, if any, were previously removed.
And what about the coral die-off that we are watching with concern? Experts currently believe that the cause is more likely due to climate change and the associated warming of the oceans. They conclude this from the fact that even extremely distant coral reefs that are not exposed to sunscreen are affected by coral death.
According to the German Bundesamt für Strahlenschutz, there is currently no conclusive scientific evidence of the environmentally harmful effects of sunscreens. But even if research cannot yet make any clear statements at this point, the possibility that they could harm our environment should motivate us to be very conscious about using sun protection products. Every time we take a shower or go swimming after using them, particles are released, which, if in doubt, can be harmful to life in our waters.
Therefore, the following also applies here: only use the sun protection factor that you really need to keep the impact on oceans and waterways as low as possible. And if you want to go swimming, consider using special sun protection clothing for swimmers instead of sunscreen. These are, for example, shirts and overalls that offer high UV protection.
If we want to protect our skin from health damage, taking the necessary precautions outdoors is now more important than ever. So, a final note on "skin health": Take advantage of offers from your health insurance company regarding skin cancer prevention. In Germany, for example, you are entitled to a free skin cancer screening every two years from age 35 under statutory health insurance.
Take care, Verena Eckstein
